How To Measure Window Casing

Whether restoring old houses or building new ones that look old, Tom Silva finds end carpentry the about satisfying part of the job. For this projection, Tom shows you how to install window trim that has reeded side and head casings, plainly corner blocks, a thick stool, and a dainty frock, all of which he copied from the original trim. "People often put in a casing that's as well small or a different style," Tom says, "only I recall it adds to the feel and the value of a home to keep to its original character."

Every bit with all cease carpentry, Tom says, successful installation begins with stable material - clear, kiln-stale forest or precast foam - and ends with precise measurements and cuts. The result is a seamless assembly with tight joints and no gaps betwixt wall and casing. "Take your time, and always measure twice earlier you cut," says Tom.

Pace 1

Trimming Out a Window

When installing window casing in old houses, Tom often has to contend with walls that dip and bulge, causing gaps betwixt the trim and wall. He can't ignore these imperfections, but he doesn't fill them with caulk. Instead, Tom uses woods filler strips. "I like to leave a nice clean edge for the painter," he says.

To brand them, he first rips a flake piece of casing to a width of i inch and as long as the casing is high. He sets the legs of a compass to span the largest wall-to-casing gap (equally shown in "Fill in the Gap" 1, far left). He then transfers that altitude to the face of the scrap woods (equally shown in "Fill in the Gap" ii). Next, he places the strip perpendicular to the casing at its outside border, resets the compass to the altitude between the largest gap and the mark on the scrap, and scribes the profile of the wall onto the scrap piece (equally shown in "Fill in the Gap" 3). Subsequently cutting along that line with a jigsaw, he applies carpenter'southward gum to the profiled scrap slice and slides it into the gap so wall and trim marry perfectly (every bit shown in "Fill in the Gap" iv). "With a light sanding and paint, the joint disappears," Tom says.

Step 2

Prep the Jambs

Concord a straightedge across the window; check that each jamb is flush with the wall. If they beetle, plane them downward to the wall. If the jambs fall short of the wall, measure the largest gap between the straightedge and each jamb. And then, from 1x stock, rip jamb extensions equally wide as necessary and ¼inch thinner than the jamb thickness. Holding the strip against the jamb, drive i ½inch eighteen-gauge pneumatic nails (or 4d finish nails) every viii to 10 inches. Plane off any backlog.

Spread the legs of a compass ¼ inch and residual the bespeak on ane of the jamb's lower inside corners. Using the inside face of the jamb as a guide, draw a reveal line along the edges of all iii jambs.

Tip: For a tight fit between the casing and jamb, plane a slight bevel into the wall-side border of the jamb.

Step 3

Cutting and Rabbet the Stool

Identify a side casing against the wall, aligned with the reveal line on a side jamb. Marking the wall at the casing'south outside edge. Repeat for the contrary jamb. Measure betwixt the marks, add 2 inches, and cut the stool to this length.

Place the stool face up down on the sill with its back edge against the sill trim. Mark where the top of the trim meets the stool's end.

Keeping the dorsum corner against the sill trim, slide the end of the upside-down stool against the jamb. Make a vertical mark where the end of the stool touches the jamb.

Connect the two marks with a square and brand an X in the area defined by the lines; this is the waste material that will be cutting out to make the rabbet.

Remove the waste in two separate rip cuts on a table saw.

Step 4

Notch and Install the Stool

Mark the stool's inside edge 1 inch from each end and place it across the opening. Mark where the stool's edge meets the inside edge of the jambs. Set up a foursquare at those marks and describe "jamb lines" across the peak of the stool. Rout the desired contour into the stool's edge and ends.

Align the jamb lines with the jambs' inside edges. Set the compass to the altitude from the stool's back edge to the sill trim. Concord the compass point against the wall and scribe lines from each end of the stool to the jamb line.

Following the scribe lines, cut a notch into each terminate of the stool with a jigsaw. Exam fit the stool; fine-tune it with a jigsaw, chisel, or sandpaper. Utilize a bead of gum to the sill.

Facenail the stool to the sill with four 18-gauge nails (or 4d finish nails).

Step 5

Install Side Casing

Cutting a square end on a piece of casing and stand up that end on the stool. Mark where its inside edge meets the head jamb's reveal line. Make a foursquare cutting at that mark. Echo on the opposite side.

Apply a bead of glue to the casing where it overlaps the side jamb and on the end that sits on the stool; line upwards its edge with the reveal line. Facenail the casing into the jamb with 4d end nails, and to the wall with 8d terminate nails. Wipe upwards squeezed-out glue. Echo the process on the other side.

Smash up through the lesser of each horn into the ends of the casing with two eighteen-gauge or 6d nails. If hand nailing, drill airplane pilot holes.

Tip: To cutting snug-fitting beveled ends, put casing face upwards on i/8-inch-thick scrap 3 inches from the miter-saw blade.

Pace half-dozen

Add Head Casing

Concord a length of casing beyond the top of the window and mark where information technology meets the within border of each side casing. With a miter saw, make square crosscuts at those marks.

Glue the head casing to the caput jamb, making sure its bottom edge lines up with the reveal line.

Stride 7

Add Corner Blocks

Test fit the corner blocks at both corners to bank check for gaps. Trim the edges of the block with a plane as needed to become a tight fit.

Apply a sparse dewdrop of mucilage to those edges of the cake that will join the side and head casing. Then dab glue on the back of the cake; put it in identify.

If using a pneumatic nailer, bulldoze 18-estimate nails into each corner. If mitt nailing, drill pilot holes, and so drive in 8d finish nails.

Pace 8

Cutting and Install the Frock

Hold a length of apron stock face down on the stool. Marker the stock where it meets each side casing's exterior edge. At the marks, make foursquare cuts with a miter saw.

To dress up the ends of an apron, hold the end of a chip apron piece perpendicular to the face of the slice just cut. Face the fleck'due south contour toward the terminate of the frock and make the edges flush. Trace the scrap's profile onto the confront of the apron. Echo on the other end. Cut along the pencil lines with a jigsaw or coping saw, and sand smoothen.

Apply glue along the top edge of the apron, marshal its ends with the outside edges of the side casing, and press the top border against the bottom of the stool.

Step 9

Finish up the Installation

Recess all nail heads with a nail set and hammer, then fill the holes with wood putty. Allow the putty to dry overnight.

Using 120-grit sandpaper, lightly hand-sand the putty flush with the surrounding wood. Then lightly sand the casings, corner blocks, stool and frock.

Wipe abroad all sanding dust with a tack rag, and so use a coat of stain and varnish, or primer and paint.

Source: https://www.thisoldhouse.com/windows/21016389/how-to-trim-out-a-window

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